"Kamar yadda wani London dandy ado": da ma'anar magana Pushkin

Daga yana karami, kuma makarantar kwana, mun tuna cewa gwarzo na Pushkin ta Eugene Onegin an sha'awar na Adam Smith da yayi cikakkar kula game da kyakkyawa da su kusoshi a lokaci guda ya kuma superbly ado kamar dandy. Duk da haka, ba duka har yanzu fahimci abin da ake nufi da kalmar "kamar yadda wani dandy London aka ado." Me "Dandy" An dauke da wani model na namiji kyakkyawa? Mene ne waɗannan pedantic mutum? Bari mu gaba da sauri zuwa ga zuciya na Ingila, marigayi XVIII karni, kuma za mu fahimci wanda yake mai dandy.

London dandy - wanda shi ne shi?

Dandy - wannan ne mai tarihi lokaci amfani da su bayyana wani mutumin da ya biya na musamman da hankali ga su bayyanar. Dandy, kamar yadda wani hali, shi ne sosai daban-daban daga wasu mambobin al'umma, ba kawai ta bayyanar amma kuma halaye: ya mai ladabi da shi, ya aka yi wasu leisurely sha'awa, shi yana da iri na a pedant, ya likes to watch tsayawar kafin madubi, m da cocky. Domin dandyism aka haife shi a karshen XVIII karni a Ingila a mayar da martani ga overly Maxaukakin Sarki rawa a cikin al'umma arziki azuzuwan (da bourgeoisie). London dandy - wani wakilin tsakiyar aji, wanda ya nẽmi don kula da aristocratic salon.

Me ake nufi da dandyism?

Daga wannan za mu iya fahimta cewa dandyism - wannan shi ne tsarki harkokin siyasa, wanda ya samo asali a cikin XVIII karni a Birtaniya da kuma shi ne wanda ya riga zuwa "American juyin juya halin" (da siyasa da suka faru a cikin kasar Birtaniya mazauna a Amurka ta Arewa 1775-1779, kawo karshen samuwar na Amurka). Ganin wadannan connotations, da panache wannan irin za a iya daukarsa a matsayin wani yunkuri ne na nuna rashin amincewarsu ga leveling na "equalization" ka'idojin da abubuwa nostalgic riko da mulkin gargajiya da kuma pre-masana'antu ka'idojin.

Mun fara da improvisation

Fashion trends ake kira dandy tambayi lokacin da na karshe shekarun da suka gabata na 18th karni. akwai da yawa funny labaru a tarihi da kuma adabi na yadda ingantattun fashion dandyism. Daya daga cikin wadannan da aka sadaukar domin da sananne dandy - Ubangiji Spencer (wakilin most Birtaniya aristocratic iyali). Wata rana, Allaha a cikin ma'aikata, ya bazata ƙone da mayafinsa-wutsiyoyi na da mayafinsa a hankali kusata da kona murhu. Ba tare da tunani, ya Ubangiji yanka su da kuma ci gaba da fun. Saboda haka, wani sabon nau'in outerwear - dasu kunkuntar ba tare da kasa "Spencer." Domin wani lokaci, maza sa "mai haske Spencer" karkashin blue kwat da wando ko shirt, kuma aka dauke gaye. Amma nan da nan wannan gashi ya zama mashahuri a cikin mata, kuma su ma suka fara sa shi.

Dandy London: Wane ne kai? Yadda za a dress?

A farkon karni XIX dandyism maza suka fara samar hanzari. "Dandy London" ado fitattu kuma m, a wata kalma - "wani iri." dandy akidar sa a gaskiyar cewa bayyanar kamata ba kunya da shi. M motsi da kuma alherin da zarar ya ware mutum daga taron. Maza, a fili, ado da dama-dama da kuma elegantly, amma su bayyanar bukaci manyan tsabar kudi outlay. Dandy London - shi ne mafi gaye na namiji wakilin jama'a!

Bari mu dauki wani misali da tabbaci ne wani sharhin, an ɗauko daga labari a ayar "Eugene Onegin" Rasha litattafansu:

"... Wannan shi ne na Onegin a manyan;
Ya aski ne latest fashion.
Ado kamar dandy a London ... "

Wannan hoton da aka ba da ake bukata da dandy da ciwon daban-daban bambance-bambance da kayan ado da kaya. Yanzu maza sun damu game da ingancin yanke, wanda ya zama manufa. Wutsiyoyi da jackets kasance babban abubuwa na yau da kullum namiji tufafi, suka sewed zane na high quality. My tufafin da aka zaba ta hanyar mai sauki, gaskiya ne: mutumin da yamma sa dasu daga duhu launi (baki ko blue), da kuma lokacin da rana - haske (yawanci m).

Biyu kawai sassa na namiji image zai iya zama wani haske launi - wannan jaket da taye, suka zaba sosai a hankali da kuma tenderly. Wadannan dandy yi imani da cewa daya daga cikin manyan batutuwa na image ne a falmaran da cewa yana da ga daidai shige zuwa cikin overall launi makirci da kwat da wando to suna da mafi sophisticated zane. Daga m dandy aka yanke shawarar tattara manyan tarin jackets na daban-daban irin zane, yanke da kuma launi (daya daga cikinsu shi ne shahararren marubucin wasannin kwaikwayo, English, kuma mawallafin Oskar Uayld). A karshe mataki a kan hanya don kammala ya zabi na wani manufa image na taye (ko cravat), wanda ya kamata a daura a cikin mafi picturesque hanya.

Kunnen doki aka dauke da babban sifa da image na "dandy"

Ma'adanin na tying taye aka mai daraja fiye da kowane abu. Wannan dandy (London) Wannan ya bambanta daga talakawa wakilin al'umma. Creative da kuma m kumburi kimanta a matsayin guda image sifa. Daidai knotted taye siffofin sauki sakaci kumburi da ya yi kama da wani da sauri improvisation, amma sai aka sadaukar babba adadin lokaci. Wannan aiki ya sami irin shahararsa cewa a farkon na XIX karni aka kishin dukan littattafan kome yadda da basira ƙulla taye ko cravat. Daya daga cikin mawallafa ya Honoré de Balzac (French marubuci, kafa hakikanci a Turai adabi), wanda a cikin 1830 ya rubuta wani littafi mai taken "rubutun a kan m rai."

Dokokin da kuma son zũciyõyin na wakilan "dandyism"

Da farko-aji dandy ya ma Moody da picky mutane. Aristocratic tsarin kula da zabin da tufafi da yawa dokoki da ka'idoji. Gaskiya wakilan "dandyism" An dauke bad hali da za a saye da kwat da wando, da sabon abu wanda yake shi ne sharply bayyane. Don kauce wa wannan, aka ba su don ci su dasu kuma vests bayin dress bayan wani lokaci ya zama kadan shabby da sawa. Wani lokaci tufafin musamman goge abubuwa da abrasive saman - m sandpaper ko gilashi. London dandy, photos da hotunan da aka gabatar a kasa, ko da yaushe damuwa game da bayyanar.

Musamman da hankali da aka biya don sirri kiwon lafiya. Clothing kamata ko da yaushe ya kasance mai tsarki da kuma kyau ƙanshi. T da kuma safar hannu bukata mafi m da kuma girmamawa da kulawa. A gaskiya dandy, akwai wani rasa rubutu mulkin: a mako wani mutum dole ne canza shirts game da ashirin, da talatin handkerchiefs, su goma sha biyar irin wando, dangantaka da kuma fiye da talatin da iyaka yawan safa da vests.