Tashin hankali a kan Everest 1996, ranar 11 ga Mayu: tarihin abin bala'i, mahalarta, masu tsira

Kowace mai tsabta ya san cewa dutsen tsaunukan dutse, wanda tsawo ya wuce mita 8000, ya ɓoye hatsari ga masu nasara. A rarefied iska yanayin jikin mutum hasarar da ikon mai da cewa sau da yawa yana sa mutuwa. Abinda ya faru a Dutsen Everest a watan Mayun 1996 ya zama tabbaci na wannan.

Wadanda ke fama da girman kai

Mutuwar hasara, dukan 1996 ya shiga wani abu mai banƙyama a cikin tarihin cin nasarar Everest. A lokacin kakar wasa, mutane goma sha biyar sun rabu da rai, suna haddasa wannan tsinkaye. Kungiyoyin 'yan kasuwa guda biyu da suka hada da' yan kasuwa '' Mountain Mountain '' da '' Masu Shawarar Game da Kasuwa 'ba su guje wa matsala ba.

Kamar yadda tarihin lamarin da ya faru a shekarar 1996 ya nuna cewa, sun kasance masu jagoranci guda shida da suka cancanci jagoranci, Sherpas guda takwas - mazauna wurin da aka hayar su a matsayin masu tsaron ƙofofi, da kuma abokan ciniki goma sha shida wadanda suka biya dala dubu sittin da dubu biyar domin damar da za su yi wasa tare da mutuwa a kan tuddai. Ga biyar, hawan ya ƙare a hankali.

Ta yaya matsalar ta fara a Everest a 1996?

Da sassafe ranar 10 ga watan Mayu, lokacin da hasken rana bai riga ya haskaka tsaunukan duwatsu ba, mutane talatin sun fara farautar Everest - wanda ya kai mita 8848 a saman teku. Shugabannin kungiyoyin sun hada da Rob Hall da Scott Fisher. Sun san cewa dukkanin yankunan mita 8000 ne ake kira "yanki na mutuwa", kuma sun fahimci bukatar yin shiri mai kyau don halartar masu halartar kullun da kuma bin ka'idodin dokoki, musamman ma game da irin wannan mummunar kullun kamar Everest. 1996, abin bala'i wanda ya tsorata magoya bayan wasan kwallon kafa, ya shiga shafin baƙar fata a tarihin duniyar duniya.

Kamar yadda wadanda suka sami damar samun tsira daga bisani sun shaida, tun daga farkon hadarin akwai mummunan aiki. Shirin hawa, mai tsaftaita lokacin da ake buƙatar cin nasara a kowane ɓangare na gangara, an keta shi nan da nan, kamar yadda ya nuna cewa Sherpas ba zai iya jurewa da shigar da hanyoyi na igiya a hanyar hanyar kungiyar ba. Lokacin da ta ƙarshe samu ga mafi muhimmanci yanki, da ake kira Stage, Hillary, akwai sun rasa fiye da sa'a guda daga m lokaci saboda jari na hawa daga sauran kungiyoyin.

Ma'aikata suna da wata doka wadda ta ce: "Ka fita daga cikin jadawalin, kada ka jira wahala - dawo!" Wasu abokan ciniki hudu na Stuart Hutchinson, John Taske, Frank Fishback da Lu Kazishke sun bi wannan shawara mai kyau kuma sun kasance da rai. Sauran 'yan hawa na ci gaba da tafiya. Da ƙarfe biyar na safe ne suka kai ga muhimmin mahimmanci, wanda yake da tsawon mita 8,350 kuma ake kira "Balcony". Har ila yau, akwai jinkirin, a wannan lokacin saboda rashin asibiti. Amma akwai kawai mita dari ne kawai zuwa tsayin daka. Ta yi ta ba da shaida, a fili yana nunawa a kan yanayin da ke cikin kyakkyawar sararin samaniya, kuma wannan zumunci na makasudin abu ya cike da haɗari kuma ya damu da haɗari.

A saman

Nisan mita - yana da yawa ko kadan? Idan kuka auna daga gida zuwa cafe mafi kusa, yana da kusa sosai, amma idan ya zo kusa da gangami, iska mai iska da zafin jiki na -40 ° C, to, a wannan yanayin za su iya shiga cikin ƙarancin kankara. Saboda haka, na karshe, matsanancin ɓangare na hawan kowane mai tsauri ya ci nasara kan kansa, zabar gudun gudunmawar lafiyar lafiyar lafiyar kansa.

Kimanin karfe daya da yamma, Anatoly Bukreev, masanin tarihin, mai daraja mai kula da wasanni, ya hau dutsen Everest. Ya fara shiga wannan taron a shekara ta 1953 kuma daga bisani ya rinjayi goma sha takwas da dubu takwas na duniya. Sau biyu an ba shi kyauta don ƙarfin kansa. A asusun da ya da yawa ceto rayuka, ciki har da lokacin hawan Dutsen Everest (da bala'i na 1996). Anatoly ya mutu shekara guda a karkashin ruwan dusar ƙanƙara a cikin Himalayas.

Wasu daga bisani Bukreev, a saman akwai wasu biyu - abokin ciniki, John Brakauer da kuma jagorar daga "Adventurers" Andy Harris. Rabin sa'a bayan haka sun jagoranci jagorancin "Hawan tsaunuka" Neil Beidleman da abokansu Martin Adams. Sauran mahalarta hawan hawan su ne mai tsanani a baya.

Zuriyar farin ciki

Bisa ga jadawalin, lokacin da aka fara ragowa ne a karfe biyu na yamma, amma a wancan lokaci yawancin masu halartar hawan ba su hau zuwa saman ba, kuma lokacin, a karshe, sun yi nasara, mutane sun yi tsada sosai kuma sun yi hotunan. Saboda haka, lokaci ya ɓace. Wannan shi ne daya daga cikin dalilai na taron, wanda yanzu aka sani da mummunar bala'i na 1996 na Everest.

Kimanin sa'o'i goma sha shida a sansanin sansanin sun karbi sakon cewa duk masu hawa suna saman. Anatoly Bukreev ya fara sauka, domin shi ne mafi tsawo duka a yanzu a mafi girma kuma ba zai iya sarrafawa ba tare da ƙarin oxygen ba. Ayyukansa shine ya koma Camp IV - filin ajiye motoci na karshe a gaban taron, hutawa kuma komawa ga taimakon wasu, tare da su tare da su na kwari da kuma zafi mai zafi.

A cikin dutsen bauta

Wadanda suka tsere daga cikin bala'i na 1996 a kan Everest daga bisani ya fada mana cewa a lokacin saukarwar Anatoliya, yanayin ya ci gaba da raguwa, iska ta tashi, an sami ganuwa sosai. Ba shi yiwuwa a ci gaba da kara a gindin, kuma sauran 'yan wasan sun jawo. Scott Fisher ya tafi tare da wani Sherpa mai suna Lopsang.

Bayan da ya isa "Balcon" kuma ya isa matakin mita 8230, an tilasta su zauna saboda yanayin mummunan yanayin kiwon lafiya na Fischer, wanda daga wannan lokacin ya fara mummunan kwakwalwar ƙwaƙwalwar ƙwaƙwalwar ƙwaƙwalwar ƙwaƙwalwa. Ya aika Lopsang don ci gaba da rago, kuma, idan ya iya, kawo taimako.

Lokacin da Sherpas ya isa Camp IV, mutanen da suke cikinta ba su da shiri su bar sansani kuma sun sake samun kansu a kan tuddai a cikin kundin da ya tashi a lokacin. An sa ran karshe a kan Bukreev, amma a wannan lokacin ya fitar da mutane uku daga dusar ƙanƙara - Sandy Pittman, Charlotte Fox da Tim Madsen. Sai kawai a tsakiyar rana na gaba sai na yi kokarin tashi zuwa Fischer, amma ya riga ya mutu. Ba za a iya saukar da jikinsa ba, don haka sai suka tara dutse a kan dutse. Alamar tunawa da Scott shine Everest (1996). Wannan bala'i ya ci gaba da girbi.

A wannan lokaci, iska ta fi karfi, kuma dusar ƙanƙara ya dauke ƙuntata ganuwa a zahiri a tsawon ƙarfinsa. A cikin wannan yanayi mafi wuya, rukuni na masu hawa daga dakin "Masu bincike na Adventure" sun rasa hanya, sun rasa duk wuraren da suka kasance. Sun yi ƙoƙari su sami hanyar zuwa Camp IV kuma suka yi makirci, har sai raunana ya fadi a kan gefen abyss, abin farin ciki, ba ta kai shi ba sai kaɗan.

Daga mutuwa ta gaskiya sun sami ceto ta wurin Bukreev. A cikin wani dusar ƙanƙara mai dusar ƙanƙara, ya gudanar da bincike akan masu hawa daskarewa kuma ya ja shi zuwa sansaninsa kadai. Wannan labarin ya bayyana dalla-dalla ne daga Neil Beydlman, daya daga cikin wadanda suka sami damar tserewa daga mutuwa ta hanyar cin nasara da Everest (1996).

Bala'i

Anatoly yayi duk abin da yake cikin ikonsa. Ba zai iya taimakawa guda biyu kawai: Yasuka Namba Yasuka Namba ya riga ya kasance cikin yanayin rashin tabbas, kuma wani dan kungiyar, Withers, ya ɓace a cikin hadari, kuma ba a iya samunsa ba. Kashegari sai ya kai sansanin kansa, amma yana da sanyi sosai wanda babu wanda ya yi fatan samun nasara. Ya tsira, amma a lokacin da aka kai helikopta zuwa asibitin, likitoci sun yanke hannunsa na dama, duk yatsun hannunsa da hanci. Wannan irin wannan mummunan yanayi ya juya masa ya hau Everest (1996).

Abinda ya faru a ranar 11 ga watan Mayu, ya ci gaba da gaba a rana mai zuwa. Lokacin da dattawa na karshe suka bar taron, biyu sun rufe: Rob Hall da abokinsa Dag Hansen. Bayan ɗan lokaci, Rob ya karbi sako mai ban mamaki cewa Doug ya rasa sani. Oxygen an bukaci da gaggawa, kuma "Advisors Advisors" ya jagoranci Andy Harris ya jagoranci su tare da zakara.

Lokacin da ya ci nasara, Hansen yana da rai, amma yana cikin mummunar yanayin. Wannan lamarin ya rikitarwa da gaskiyar cewa mai sarrafa Rob na oxygen cylinder yana dashi, kuma ba za'a iya haɗa shi da mask. Bayan wani lokaci, Harris ya zo don ya taimakawa ba zato ba tsammani ya ɓace a cikin raƙuman ruwa.

A lokacin gidan rediyo na karshe, Rob Hall ya ruwaito cewa duka dutsen da suke tare da shi sun mutu, kuma ya kusan rashin jin dadi saboda tsananin sanyi. Mutumin ya nemi ya haɗa shi tare da matarsa mai ciki, Jane Arnold, wanda ya zauna a New Zealand. Bayan ya gaya mata wasu kalmomi na ta'aziyya, Rob har abada ya kashe rediyo. Halin da ya faru a kan Everest a shekarar 1996 ya rage rayuwar mutumin nan. Ba zai yiwu ya cece shi ba, kuma bayan kwanaki 12 sai sauran mambobi ne na wani balaguro wanda aka samu a cikin sanyi.

Halin da ke faruwa a Dutsen Everest a shekara ta 1996 ya zama abin bakin ciki. Ƙungiyar "Mountain Madness" ta sha wahala sosai, amma a lokacin da aka haɗu daga shugabansa, Scott Fisher, ya halaka. Ƙungiyar ta biyu - "Adventurers" - rasa mutane hudu a yanzu. Su ne: Shugaban Rod Hall, abokinsa na da Dag Hansen, mai koyar da dutsen hawa Andy Harris da kuma Yasuko Namba mai suna Gulf, wanda bai isa sosai ba kafin Camp IV.

Dalilin wannan bala'i

Yau, bayan shekaru masu yawa daga ranar abubuwan da suka faru da bala'i, da nazarin abubuwan da suka faru na wannan mummunan bala'o'i a cikin Himalayas, masanan sun fahimci cewa akwai da dama daga cikinsu. Rashin hawan tsaunukan dutse fiye da alamun mita dubu takwas yana haɗari da haɗari, amma mataki ya dogara ne akan yadda ake buƙata bukatun masu halartar hawan hawan.

Daga cikin dalilan da suka haifar da bala'i a kan Dutsen Everest (Mayu 1996), da farko dai, an yi la'akari da hakkokin da ake haɗaka da haɓaka. Bisa ga shirin da aka tsara a baya, kungiyoyi biyu, da suka fara hawa da tsakar dare a ranar 10 ga watan Mayu, sun isa gada a asuba, kuma a ranar 10 ga watan Mayu a ranar Asabar ta Kudu.

A karshe na hawan - Everest - ya kamata ya tashi a tsakar rana. Wannan shirin bai ci gaba ba, kuma hawan hawan ya kai 16 hours. Rashin zalunci ya haifar da wasu abubuwa da dama da suka haifar da mutuwar mutane. Dokar "Daga cikin jadawalin, kada ku tsammaci matsala - dawo!" An manta.

Daya daga cikin dalilan da ya faru a kan Everest a watan Mayu 1996, masu bincike sun kira jerin jinkiri a lokacin hawan. Game da hawan dutse, ana zaton Sherpas Lapsang da Rob zasu bar sansanin a gaban sauran mutanen kuma su sanya matakan igiya a kusa da Kudancin Kudanci domin kare lafiyar masu hawa. Ba suyi haka ba saboda hare-hare na rashin lafiyar dutse a cikin ɗayan su. Wannan aikin ya kamata a yi ta jagorancin Bukreev da Beidleman, wanda ya haifar da ƙarin jinkiri.

Tsaro ya karya

Bugu da ƙari, masu shirya wannan tashin hankali sun yarda da cin zarafin dokokin tsaro a wannan rana. Gaskiyar ita ce, a ranar 11 ga Mayu, uku kungiyoyi sun yi wa Hauwa'u rauni. Abinda ya faru a shekarar 1996 ya fi yawa saboda cewa a wannan rana akwai yawan mutane masu hawa a kan gangaren, kuma an cire kwalliya a gaban sashin karshe, wanda ya fi sauƙi a hawan.

A sakamakon haka, a tsawon 8500 mita, a cikin yanayin rarefied iska da kuma sanyi lokatai, gaji mutane aka tilasta jira a layin, a tsaye a cikin daskarewa iska. Daga bisani, bayan nazarin dalilan da suka haifar da mummunan bala'i a kan Everest a shekara ta 1996, masu shirya hawan hawan sun sami barazanar ta hanyar fatan cewa yawancin masu halartar hawan zasu taimaka musu wajen magance zurfin dusar ƙanƙara da sauran matsalolin hanya.

Dalili akan abubuwan da ke faruwa a kan masu hawa

Duk wanda ya hau, har ma wanda ya shirya su, ya kamata ya sani cewa a matsanancin matsayi jikin jikin mutum yana da tasiri mai yawa. Daga cikinsu, rashin isashshen oxygen da ke haifar da rage iska, da sanyi, wani lokacin kai -75 ° C.

Matsananciyar wahala ta haifar da hawan dutse a gefen dutse, wadannan abubuwa suna haifar da karuwa a cikin kututturewa, numfashi, da kuma wani lokaci zuwa hypothermia da hypoxia. A irin wannan nauyin, jiki ya rasa ikon dawowa, kuma yawancin jiki yana kaiwa ga ƙarewa. Irin wannan haɗari ne na Everest. Abinda ya faru a shekara ta 1996, ya kasance a kan gangarensa, ya zama tabbaci mai haske da bakin ciki.

Kamar yadda aikin ya nuna, daga cikin mawuyacin mutuwar masu hawa a dutsen mafi girma yawanci shine rubutu na kwakwalwa. Sakamakon rashin isasshen abun oxygen a cikin iska kuma yana kaiwa ga ciwon kwari, ga wanda kuma mutuwa. Wani abu na mutuwa a yanayin yanayi mara kyau da kuma yanayin zafi maras kyau ana kiransa huhu. Ya ƙare sau da yawa tare da ciwon ƙumburi, mashako da ƙutsotsi na haƙarƙarin.

Rashin isashshen sunadarin oxygen, ƙaddamar da ƙananan nauyi, yakan haifar da hare-haren zuciya, wanda ba tare da kulawa da gaggawa ba zai iya haifar da mutuwa. Babban haɗari ga mutumin da ya sami kansa a cikin duwatsu shi ma makafi ne, wanda dusar ƙanƙara ta sha a cikin yanayi mai haske. Yana kaiwa ga hatsarori, Everest ta shaida. Abinda ya faru (1996), wanda masu halartar hoto suka nuna wannan labarin, sun ba da wadataccen kayan don fahimtar abubuwan da ke faruwa da kuma inganta matakan tsaro.

Kuma, a karshe, frostbite. Kamar yadda aka gani a sama, a mita 8000 an sauko yawan zazzabi zuwa -75 ° C. Idan muka yi la'akari da cewa gusts na iska a nan kai 130 kilomita a kowace awa, ya zama bayyananne abin da haɗari ga rayuwar mutum ta gabatar da irin wannan yanayi matsananci.

Bugu da ƙari ga irin mummunan tasiri akan yanayin mutum, duk abubuwan da ke sama sun kara damuwa da halayyar tunaninsa. Wannan na rinjayar ƙwaƙwalwar lokaci da ƙwaƙwalwar ƙwaƙwalwar ajiya, fahimtar hankali, ikon iya bincika halin da ake ciki kuma, a sakamakon haka, ya hana su dama don yanke shawara mai kyau.

Domin yada juriya na kwayar cutar zuwa abubuwan da ke cutar da shi, an yi amfani da hanzari. Duk da haka, a wannan yanayin, an kaddamar da lissafinta. Dalilin haka shi ne jinkirta a shigarwa da sansani masu tsawo, da kuma rashin shiri na masu halartar hawan. Kamar yadda za a iya gani daga tunaninsu, mutane da yawa ba su iya rarraba rundunarsu ba, kuma suna so su kare su, sun nuna rashin jinkirin tashin hankali.

Yanayin yanayi da rashin isashshen oxygen

Masu hawan gwaninta sun san cewa ko da shirin da ya fi dacewa da shi ba shi da tabbacin nasararsa. Mafi yawan dogara ne akan ko kuna da sa'a tare da yanayin. Everest wani yanki ne inda ya canza tare da mamaki sosai. A cikin gajeren lokaci, yana yiwuwa a matsawa daga rana mai haske zuwa hadari na dusar ƙanƙara, yana rufe duk abin da ke kusa da mummunar haɗari.

Wannan shi ne abin da ya faru a wannan ranar rashin lafiya, ranar 11 ga Mayu, 1996. Halin da ke faruwa a Dutsen Everest kuma ya fargaba saboda lokacin da masu hawa, wadanda suka tsira daga fyaucewa daga cin nasara a taron, suka fara sauka, yanayin ya tsananta. Tsuntsar ƙanƙara da dusar ƙanƙara da ƙananan canji da yawa sun ɓoye alamun da ke nuna hanya zuwa Camp IV. A sakamakon haka, rukuni na dutsen hawa sun ɓace musu, sun rasa wuraren alamomi.

Hurricane iskõki, gudun wanda wannan rana kai 130 kilomita awa, kuma mai tsanani frosts ba kawai abun da mutane da za a shafe a cikin zurfin jãhilci, amma kuma ya haifar da yanayi matsa lamba. Kamar yadda wani sakamako, shi ya fadi oxygen abun ciki na iska. Yana kai 14%, wanda aka musamman aggravated halin da ake ciki. Wannan taro da aka bukaci nan da nan yin amfani da oxygen cylinders, wanda a wannan lokacin da aka gaba daya cinye. Wannan halitta a mawuyacin halin da. Akwai wani barazana da asarar sani, na huhu edema kuma game mutuwa.

Rashin cylinders - kwaro hawa shirya cewa za su yi gãfara ba a Everest. Tashin hankalin ya faru ne a shekara ta 1996 ma, saboda wasu daga cikin Membobinta sun mutane unprepared, talauci da canja wurin rarefied iska. A lokacin da suka yi acclimatization barci tare da oxygen tankuna, wanda muhimmanci ƙara musu amfani. Bugu da kari, su ana buƙatar a manyan yawa domin ceton Ngawang Sherpa, kwashe daga tsawo.

A hatsari lurking a cikin kasuwanci tsarin kula da hawa dutse

Kuma wanda mafi muhimmanci factor da ta haifar da m aukuwa a kan May 11, 1996. bala'i a kan Dutsen Everest, wasu har suka samu daga harkokin na hawa dutse, wanda ya fara a cikin nineties. Sa'an nan ya zo da sauri, kuma aka ɓullo da tsarin tsara kawai ga amfãne daga cikin so da abokan ciniki su shiga a cikin mamaye na kololuwa. Ba su taka rawar da wani matakin da horo na wadannan mutane, ko kuma su shekaru ko yanayin jiki.

Babban abu ne da za a biya zuwa bukata adadin. A cikin hali na "Mountain hauka" da "Consultants kasada", ta kasance sittin da biyar dala dubu. The farashin hada da sabis na sana'a Yanã shiryar da kudin abinci, kayan aiki, bayarwa da tushe sansanin da kuma rakiya zuwa ganiya da dutsen.

Daga bisani, daya daga cikin jagororin yarda cewa abokan ciniki kasance wani ɓangare na "Mountain of hauka", to karba haka unprepared ga hawan, ya kasance tabbata a gaba ga rashin cin nasara, da kuma, Duk da haka, kai su zuwa tsawo cewa shi ne m kawai don gogaggen 'yan wasa. Game da shi lahani rayuwar ba kawai na yawon bude ido amma kuma dukan waɗanda suka tafi tare da su. A tsawo na kuskure na mutum daya zai iya kai ga mutuwa da dukan kungiyar. Sashe na daga cikin hanyar shi ya faru. Bala'i a kan Everest (1996), wanda mambobin ya shafa da kasuwanci bukatun - hujja da wannan.